Flat mother-of-pearl stone mounted on a silver ring, designed by Swedish silversmith Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe. This is a very rare ring made by the Torun workshop and not associated with Georg Jensen. Stamped TORUN STERLING. Very good condition.
Size US 9 Weight 8.52 grams
Reference: Caroline Cox, Vintage Jewellery: Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics, 2022, p.125 for a similar mother-of-pearl ring by Torun.
Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe (1927 – 2004), often known simply as Torun, was one of the most important Swedish silversmiths of the 20th century and a master jeweler. She is the first female silversmith to become internationally famous. Among her most important works are the "Vivianna" watch, the "Mobius" bracelet and the "Dew Drop" earrings and necklaces. Torun's jewelry was inspired by natural shapes such as flowers, leaves, swirls and the flow of water. It is described as understated, minimalist and simple. Torun has been praised for its ability to mold solid materials into seemingly flexible shapes, so that the metal flows like water around the wearer's neck and shoulders. She did not use precious stones, preferring instead pebbles, granite, rock crystal, moonstone and quartz.
She is Georg Jensen's second most famous designer, behind Jensen himself. In 1992 she was awarded the Prince Eugen Medal by King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden for her outstanding artistic achievement. Also in 1992, Georg Jensen held an exhibition honoring 25 years of his association with Torun, 45 years of her work with silver, and her 65th birthday. That same year, the Louvre's Musee des Arts Decoratifs held a 45-year retrospective of Torun's work.
